Jerez, The Sunday Times
A favourite with sherry-seeking day-trippers from Seville and Cadiz, this Andalusian city is too often rushed. But its pick-and-mix architecture (a legacy of Moorish then Christian rule), sun-soaked squares and artsy wine cellars are best appreciated over two or more days. New design-led boutique accommodation has modernised the hotel scene and old-school tapas tabancos rub up against Michelin-starred restaurants. Jerez is evolving, but the popularity of its two biggest exports — sherry and flamenco — remains unchallenged, particularly as the fortified wine shakes off its “just for grannies” image.
Full article here - https://www.thetimes.co.uk/art...
NEW YORK CITY (WORLD PRIDE 2019)
Words for The Press Association (as seen in Nottingham Post, Loughborough Echo, The Chronicle)
Fifty years after the gay rights movements kicked off, the Big Apple is taking pride in its history says Emilia Harris
We’re singing Britney at the top our lungs, cramped into the makeshift dance floor like a rainbow- coloured pick-and-mix. I’ve got a G&T in one hand, I’m fist pumping with the other, and suddenly I’m joining an airborne conga-line with my comrades, just strangers a few hours ago. A fluffy cloud zips past the windows, turbulence pausing the fun momentarily as we head back to our seats for the first time in hours.
I’m at 35,000 ft, half-way across the Atlantic Ocean, and zooming towards Newark, NJ on Virgin Atlantic’s first ever Pride Flight. It’s been one big onboard party, from the fabulously dressed drag queens, to a full LGBTQ+ crew. New York City (NYC) is our final destination, and LGBTQ+ culture is engrained in the city’s history; the modern Pride movement started here 50 years ago, following The Stonewall Riots.
We touch down, and drive the 50-minutes from Newark Airport to downtown Manhattan (alternatively you can take the train to Newark Penn Station, then hop on the PATH train to World Trade Center for approximately one hour). We emerge from the Holland Tunnel, (it long and congested, but connects New Jersey and lower Manhattan), into the heart of NYC’s Financial District, the densely packed buildings towering over us like oversized chess pieces.
The jet lag has me leaping out of bed the next morning, and it’s not long before I’m out and about with a Starbucks in one-hand, a bagel in the other. NYC is easy to explore by foot, the grid system of downtown making it easier to navigate than most European cities. The hot June sun blazes down over plumes of steam rising from manhole covers, and rainbow flags punctuating each street corner make things feel less concrete jungle, and more rainbow rainforest.
I’m here the weekend of World Pride and the city is expecting over four million additional visitors, making it the world’s biggest ever Pride event. But, NYC is not just a destination for celebrations during Pride month, it’s inclusivity and vibrancy are projected all year round. According to the NYC tourist board (nycgo.com) 10-11% of their visitors each year are LGBTQ+, making it one of the most popular cities in the world among the community. So, whether you’re a lifelong ally, or looking for a vibrant metropolis where your true, authentic self can shine, NYC is a great choice.
Nowhere is this inclusivity clearer than in Greenwich Village, the bustling West Side neighbourhood where scantily-clad drag queens strut past stroller-pushing Manhattan Moms en-route to brunch. ‘The Village’ as the locals refer to it, is home to the Stonewall Inn, the location of the 1969 Stonewall Riots which saw violent clashes break-out between the police and the gay community, sparking the modern Pride movement. It’s also home to quiet leafy streets, delightful neighbourhood cafes, and film locations (Carrie Bradshaw’s apartment can be found at 66 Perry St).
Keen to learn more about the area, I join an Oscar Wilde Walking Tour (oscarwildetours.com; USD 39 for two-hours). The tour is led by the charming Andrew Lear, a Greenwich local, Harvard professor who specialises in Ancient Greek Homosexual relations, and good friend of Stephen Fry! We wind through the Village, stopping at historic locations, including the Stonewall Inn, Julius Bar (NYC’s first gay bar), Washington Square, and finish up at the spot where the first ever Pride March gathered 51 years ago.
Hunger pangs strike and I make a beeline for Bleeker Street Pizza (bleeckerstreetpizza.com; slices from USD 4). Their numerous awards ensure a queue, but it’s worth the wait. My legs ache, but this is New York and there’s a whole city to explore, so I inhale my slice of Pepperoni and jump on the Subway heading Downtown.
The afternoon is spent at the 9/11 Memorial & Museum (911memorial.org; memorial free, museum admission USD 26, but free with a City Pass), the huge museum features galleries, artefacts, and personal stories from survivors and those who lost their lives, helping to narrate the horrific events that unfolded on September 11th 2001, and the World Trade Center bombing of 1993. The crushed mobile phones, broken shoes and ripped wallets recovered from the scene are particularly harrowing, staying in my thoughts long after I leave the museum.
Outside the museum you’ll find the 9/11 Memorial Plaza, including two huge memorial pools built in the footprints of the original Twin Towers, the bronze edgings of each one engraved with the names of those who lost their lives during the 2001 and 1993 attacks.
The reconstruction of the World Trade area also includes the mind-boggling Oculus, it’s exterior designed to look like a dove in flight (I say an extra from Transformers is more accurate, but I’ll let you make your own decision). Underneath is a Westfield shopping centre, but I’m still in sightseeing mode, so I skip the shops and pop next door for an evening at the One World Observatory (oneworldobservatory.com; from USD 35).
The experience starts with the ascension to the top, the lifts interior showing a short illustrated movie about New York’s transformation from uninhabited island to skyscraper utopia. The doors ping open to panoramic views of Manhattan, New Jersey also visible across The Hudson river. At 541m above ground, the building is nearly twice the height of The Shard and the sixth tallest building in the world. I push my face up against the glass, looking down at the miniature world underneath me, lapping up the dazzling view.
Legs finally giving out, I take the 10 minute walk back to The Beekman (thebeekman.com; from USD 225 per night), my chic digs for the weekend. Its iconic brownstone architecture has been a NYC landmark since 1881, the interior a perfectly styled mismatch of tasselled lampshades, luxurious leather couches, and a polished timber reception desk, its front adorned in vintage Persian rugs. I snap a quick picture of the wrought iron, nine-story atrium, each floor lit up with a different colour of the rainbow, before falling into bed.
It’s a scorching hot morning and I’m enjoying the breeze at the front of the ferry. I’m half-way across the deliciously named Buttermilk Channel, having left Downtown Manhattan less than five minutes ago. We terminate at Governor’s Island (govisland.com; open May 1 – Oct 31, free), an old military base closed to visitors for two centuries. Today, the island is home to an award-winning park, art exhibitions, and a spectacular view of downtown Manhattan (though the somewhat eerily quiet military buildings still remain). I spend a relaxed day in the Hammock Grove, surrounded by wild-flowers, armies of buzzing bees, and a band of melodic sparrows.
The couple next to me have bought a picnic, but I’m after something more substantial and walk the short distance to Island Oyster (islandoyster.com; mains about USD 15, Oysters from USD 3) on the waterfront. I’m working my way through the aptly named Spirit Animal cocktail, the rum & Aperol making me feel flushed (or is it the sunburn?). I look across the water, the densely packed buildings of lower Manhattan feeling a world away from my island escape. The skyline, like the city, has changed at pace, but it’s the people here that make NYC such a remarkable place to visit no matter who you are, or who you love. From the Stonewall Riots, to over 4 million visitors descending on the city for World Pride just 50 years later, it’s more open and accepting than ever. What a time to be alive, I think, slurping the remains of my cocktail.
Three nights in New York with Virgin Holidays, including scheduled Virgin Atlantic flights from London Heathrow direct to New York City, room only accommodation at The Beekman costs from £1125. Price is per person based on 2 adults travelling and sharing a Superior King room and includes all applicable taxes and fuel surcharges which are subject to change. Price is based on a departure on 24th August 2019. Virgin Holidays is a member of ABTA and is ATOL protected. To book: www.virginholidays.co.uk, 0344 557 3859.
(Image credit - PA)
CAPITAL REGIONS USA
Words for The Press Association (as seen in Manchester Evening News, The Scotsman, YP Magazine, Bristol Post)
Winding forest trails and peaceful lakeside tracks make a trip through Maryland and Virginia feel actively wonderful, says Emilia Harris
The afternoon sun pierces through the canopy of trees above me, casting a golden dappled light on the narrow track ahead. As a tree root comes into view, I hear my tour guide's voice repeating in my head: "These bikes can go over anything on the trails!"
But when a long black object slinks onto the path, I hit the brakes, nearly ejecting myself over the handle bars. My heart thuds. It's a Northern Black Racer snake, unfazed by the near miss.
I'm guessing my guide wasn't referring to snakes in her remit, so I wait for it to cross, in all its silken splendour.
I'm in the Capital Region USA, an area encompassing Maryland, Virginia and Washington DC (the gateway to the region). The landscape is diverse; horses graze peacefully on emerald pastures, and lush, fertile hills roll into mountains, with dense forests covering their rugged terrain. Outdoor pursuits are limitless and include hiking, horse-riding and biking trails.
Virginia's Blue Ridge (or VBR as it's known by the locals), is a mountain biker's paradise. Bordered by the Appalachian Mountains to the west and the Allegheny Mountains to the east, it's recently been designated a Silver-Level Ride Centre by the International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA), and draws thousands of global biking enthusiasts to its trails each year.
Carvins Cove in VBR is the second largest municipal park in the USA, and boasts 40 miles of multi-use trails for all abilities. I pick up my bike from Roanoke Mountain Adventures (roanokemountainadventures.com) and begin by tackling The Enchanted Forest, a half-mile single-track trail with conditions as charming as its name. Pine needles scatter the dusty surface in a thick blanket, perfect for cushioning your landing, should a particularly large tree root knock you off balance.
I continue my ride keeping my eyes peeled for black bears and bald eagles who call the area home (sightings are rare but not unheard of), as well as the more common serpentine sorts nestling in the undergrowth.
Roanoke, VA is the largest city and main hub of the VBR region, with an excellent selection of restaurants and bars - perfect for refuelling after a long day on the bike.
It's also home to the Hotel Roanoke (hotelroanoke.com), a historic hotel with 330 rooms recently restored to their original 19th century splendour. Unsure where to find it? No fear, locals will point you there with pinpoint accuracy - it's towered over the city since 1882 and is a treasured landmark. Make sure to dine in their opulent Regency Room, the perfect setting to try peanut soup and spoon bread. Peanuts are one of Virginia's most illustrious exports, and rumour has it that the hotel's soup recipe has remained unchanged for over 100 years.
For picture-perfect views of the city, hike the 1.3-mile Star Trail up Mill Mountain to The Roanoke Star, the iconic symbol of Virginia's Blue Ridge. Originally built in 1949, it's the largest free-standing star in the world and is illuminated every night, casting a yellow glow across the hillside. (Your visit to VBR isn't complete without a game of 'spot the star' from downtown Roanoke). Once at the top, I admire the panoramic view of the sprawling city below, lovingly embraced by the surrounding mountains.
All this exploring is making me hungry, so I head for an early dinner at El Jefe, in Salem, VA (a 20-minute drive from Downtown Roanoke). Their cinnamon-braised pork carnitas are spicy, succulent and delicious. I pair them with a jalapeno cucumber margarita while stretching out my aching legs in the warm evening sun.
Sundowners at Twin Creeks Distillery in Franklin County, VA, are perfect to offset all the exercise. After all, life's about balance, right? Franklin County, aka the 'moonshine capital of the world', got it's nickname during 1920s Prohibition, and it was rumoured that most residents were tied up in the illegal moonshine industry, distilling and distributing hundreds of thousands of gallons of the corn-based alcohol across a five-year period.
Now, Twin Creeks Distillery serves legal moonshine, fruit brandy and white whiskey. Master Distiller Chris Prillaman's roots run deep in the industry; his great-grandfather was indicted in the Great Moonshine Conspiracy Trial of 1935 which saw the local government try to recoup an estimated $5.5 million in lost whiskey taxes.
Gaining his licence to distil in 2015, Chris was the first person to sell a legal bottle of moonshine in the county. The irony isn't lost on him and he delights in sharing anecdotes with me throughout the evening.
Bright and early the next morning, I'm crossing the state border into Allegany County, Maryland, zipping past eastern red bud trees which line the highway, their blossom reminding me of candy floss on wooden sticks (good timing - I'm told they're only in bloom for two weeks of the year in May).
Kitted out by Get Out & Play Outfitters, I spend the afternoon riding a section of the Great Allegheny Passage. Advanced riders can tackle the 150-mile ride from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, to Cumberland, Maryland, but I'm after a relaxed amble.
The path is paved smooth for most of the ride, and I'm flanked by a gentle stream, its trickle providing a peaceful soundtrack to my exploration. I glide into the town of Frostburg, MD, an hour later, having crossed both the Eastern Continental Divide and the Mason-Dixon Line (the original boundary of the Northern and Southern US states).
It would be easy to while away an afternoon exploring Frostburg's historic downtown, admiring the church spires which tower over the brown stone buildings and enjoying it's fresh mountain air. But I'm here for caffeine - a pick-me-up ahead of our next expedition. There are no Starbucks to be found here, because the downtown is a hub of family-owned businesses, and the cosy Clatter Coffee (15 S Broadway), owned by friendly John and his wife Lesley, is just the ticket. Not for the first time, I relish in the community spirit running through this town's veins - just like the caffeine working its way through mine.
The clock rolls round for the next activity, but this time, I ditch my wheels and head on foot to explore the Lakeside Loop Trail at Rocky Gap State Park. I mosey along the scenic quarter-mile route to the Canyon Overlook. The vista at the top is a treat, revealing mountains covered in dense hemlock forest stretching to the horizon. Turkey vultures glide above like kites, occasionally diving back to earth for a lunchtime snack.
Back on the Loop Trail, I'm captivated by the brilliant blue waters of Lake Habeeb, glistening in the late afternoon sun. An impromptu dip is tempting, but I resist. There's been quite enough exercise this week, I conclude, continuing my stroll and breathing in the now familiar smells of the forest.
<https://more.talktalk.co.uk/ne...>
Top Trump: Why Washington DC has much more to offer than power and politics
September 11, 2019 8:30:47 AM
Washington, DC feels familiar. When you first set eyes on the US Capitol building (home of The United States Congress), the Statue of Freedom standing triumphantly on top, you feel acquainted.
This close acquaintance is partly down to the big screen; from the Capitol building being flattened in Designated Survivor, to The Lincoln Memorial being blown to smithereens in Transformers: Dark Of The Moon, Hollywood can’t get enough of America’s capital.
Washington Monument (iStock/PA)But whether your knowledge of Washington, DC comes from the history books or House Of Cards, there’s nothing quite like seeing it for yourself. The city has often been overlooked by overseas visitors, who tend to make a beeline for the bright lights of NYC, but Washington, DC is a destination on the rise. Visitor numbers have been increasing for the past seven years, with a record 22 million tourists arriving in 2017.
It’s been the home of the US Government since 1790, but DC is much more than white-collar workers and congress. There are vibrant and diverse neighbours to explore, all buzzing with delicious eateries and lively bars. And the city is heaving with museums and galleries – most of which are free to visit.
Here’s your essential guide…
Segway the sights
Bike and Roll DC offer guided Segway tours of Washington, DC (Emilia Harris/PA)Get your bearings with a guided Segway tour along the grassy National Mall, which stretches for two miles between the Capitol building and the Lincoln Memorial, and is flanked by some of DC’s most impressive museums. Once you’ve mastered the Segway, you’ll be whizzing alongside iconic monuments, your guide explaining their history along the route. Highlights include rolling past the Capitol building, its white dome towering over you like an over-sized wedding cake. Bike and Roll DC (bikeandrolldc.com) offer a 2.5-hour Sites by Segway tour for $64/£52 per adult.
Get Lost in a Smithsonian museum or gallery
National Museum of African American History & Culture, Smithsonian Museum (Washington.org/PA)Whether it’s art, culture or science which piques your interest, make time to visit at least one Smithsonian museum or gallery. Washington, DC boasts 17 of them, with the majority clustered on the National Mall. They’re also free to enter, which makes seeing multiple museums in a day totally doable. Visit si.edu.
Don’t miss the National Museum of African American History & Culture (nmaahc.si.edu), which provides a vital reminder of how African American history has shaped America today. The historical exhibitions start in 15th century Africa and move chronologically through to Barack Obama’s Presidency. Objects on display include a plantation slave cabin from South Carolina and a linen shawl gifted to Harriet Tubman by Queen Victoria.
Go behind the scenes of the US government
The U.S. Capitol Building, located on the National Mall (Emilia Harris/PA)As the federal heart of the USA, DC is crammed with government buildings. Some are closed to foreign visitors (including the White House), but those who let you past the red tape are well worth a visit.
Start with a tour of the U.S. Capitol (visitthecapitol.gov; free but book in advance) home to the legislative branch of the government. Guided tours include a look inside the Rotunda – the huge oil paintings adorning its interior walls are particularly impressive – and the Crypt, plus the National Statuary Hall, which is dedicated to sculptures of prominent Americans.
Head east to The Library of Congress (loc.gov; free), the largest library in the world containing more than 164 million items. Beyond books, the main draw is the grandiose and heavily ornamented Thomas Jefferson Building, a classic example of Parisian Beaux-Arts architecture. Guided tours are available.
Top tip: Most US government buildings have airport style security, so leave extra time for entry if you’re on a schedule.
Feast on global flavours
Supra DC’s Georgian menu includes Khachapuri (Andrew Propp/PA)From casual bistros in Georgetown, to Michelin-starred elegance in Downtown, DC is a foodie paradise. Supra DC (supradc.com; large sharing plates from $18/£15) in Logan Circle is the city’s first Georgian restaurant, and its unique menu includes a section dedicated to khachapuri, a traditional Georgian bread filled with cheese and egg.
For spot-on Mexican cuisine, head to Mi Vida (mividamexico.com) in the Wharf Development. It’s floor-to-ceiling bar is stocked with a headache-inducing selection of tequilas. For an afternoon well spent, enjoy a margarita (from $11/£9) paired with some juicy tacos (from $10/£8 for three) on their water-facing terrace.
For a quick bite, head to Luke’s Lobster (lukeslobster.com) in the Penn Quarter. Their fresh lobster rolls (from $17/£14) are stuffed full of wild-caught lobster and served in a soft buttery bun.
Enjoy cocktails and culture after dark
The Thomas Jefferson Memorial illuminated at night (Washington.org/PA)Evenings in DC take on a slower pace; the selfie-stick ditherers diminish and popular landmarks get quieter. Take a relaxed amble along the National Mall and enjoy some key landmarks illuminated after dark, including the Washington Monument and Thomas Jefferson Memorial.
Next, tick off both culture and cocktails at the POV Rooftop Lounge and Terrace (povrooftop.com; cocktails from $17/£14) located in the W Hotel. Just a short stroll from the National Mall, the rooftop overlooks The White House and The Treasury; that’s two more sights ticked off with a cocktail in hand – nice work.
Continue the night at Wild Days (wild-days-dc.com), the Eaton Hotel’s top-floor bar, which has nightly DJs and a rooftop firepit. There’s also a weekday Happy Hour (Mon-Fri, 4pm-6pm), with drink specials.
Wrap yourself in a blanket of wellness
The Eaton DC’s wellness and yoga room (Adrian Gaut/PA)Staying in Washington DC is becoming more affordable thanks to a recent influx of mid-range hotels. The wellness-focused Eaton Hotel (eatonworkshop.com; doubles $139/£113 per night excluding breakfast) located in the heart of downtown, is both affordable and stylish – but it’s more than just a place to rest your head.
The Eaton is a cultural hub with co-working spaces, a dedicated yoga studio (including an infared sauna), an in-house radio station and community meeting rooms. Its sustainable design is minimalist – think exposed concrete and brass lamps – and the industrial feel is softened with leather sofas, bespoke woodwork and bushy plants.
The rooms are spacious and homely – and all feature a record player with vinyl collection included. The minibars are a nod to the hotel’s wellness focus, and include healthy snacks and kombucha.
How to get there
North America Travel Service (0333 323 9099; northamericatravelservice.co.uk) offer a four-night Washington, DC package from £1,337 per person based on travel in September 2019. Includes direct flights with Virgin Atlantic from London Heathrow to Washington Dulles International Airport and four nights’ accommodation at the Eaton DC Hotel.
SALCOMBE, SOUTH DEVON
Words for The Press Association (as seen in Birmingham Mail, Manchester Evening News, The Chronicle)
Looking beyond buckets and
spades, Emilia Harris finds out what’s new in this popular Devon resort.
The cold wind whips around my ears and violently shakes the branches overhead. Right now, I’m unsure whether the bead plummeting down my cheek is sweat or rain.
As my feet weigh down on the pedals and my legs start to burn, I activate ‘turbo mode’ and battery power aids my climb to the top of the hill. I’m on an e-bike and that bead slipping down my cheek is most certainly rain – even on the steepest of South Devon hills, I’ve barely broken a sweat.
It’s my second morning in the South Hams region of Devon, located between Torbay and Plymouth and bordering the Dartmoor National Park to the north.
It’s an area with a strong rural and maritime heritage, where sandy beaches rub up against rich coastal grasslands. And it’s so pretty, it’s a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB).
Naturally beautiful it may be, but exploring on two wheels has largely lacked appeal to the average South Devon visitor, due to the relentless and often steep hills. Thankfully, e-Xplore Devon (e-xploredevon.co.uk; from £50 per bike per day) have made cycling here more accessible (and a great choice during the summer, when car parks are full and the roads are gridlocked).
Their collection of battery-powered e-bikes (from all-terrain to e-tandems) will have you speeding along with minimal effort – though if you’re feeling energetic, you can drop to a lower setting or turn off the battery completely.
There are suggested cycling routes on the e-Xplore website, and the 21-mile Beach Circuit is a delicious amble along coastal roads and through quaint villages. I dismount in the tiny hamlet of Thurlestone and admire its 17th century thatched roofs and it’s glorious bay (featuring Thurlestone Rock), before continuing to Bolberry Down, a long stretch of rugged coastline.
The route continues east and I refuel at The Winking Prawn (winkingprawngroup.co.uk/winking-prawn; seafood mains from approx £10), a family-run seafood restaurant on Salcombe North Sands beach. Beer fans should order the aptly named Prawn Juice, which is brewed in partnership with the South Hams Brewery.
I continue on my cycle and initiate ‘turbo mode’, mainly because I’m full of garlic prawns and don’t fancy a stitch. The route flanks the Salcombe estuary – its vibrant blue waters punctuated with small white sailing boats – before turning back inland. I finish back at the e-Xplore showroom in Kingsdown and space permitting, you can leave your car there whilst you cycle. The crew at e-Xplore can also drop your bike directly to your accommodation.
The rainy weather and long cycle have me craving some home comforts, so I head back to my rustic but extremely cosy shepherds hut. The Salcombe Shepherds Huts (salcombeshepherdhuts.co.uk; from £200 for Monday-Friday and weekend visits, and from £325 for a week) are an excellent choice if you want a slightly more luxurious camping experience. The four huts are handcrafted using local and sustainable wood, and each includes a log burner (perfect for winter trips or chillier nights), and a fully-equipped kitchen.
I’m in the Foxes Den which has an en-suite toilet (new for 2021), a comfy double bed (though it’s up a ladder so book either The Potting Shed or The Shippen if that’s a problem), and a small leather couch. I enjoy my morning coffee at the picnic table with its views of the Kingsbridge Estuary and flocks of sheep merrily grazing in the surrounding fields.
The next morning I’m zipping along country roads to Bigbury-on-Sea, where I’m booked in for a surfing lesson with Discovery Surf School (discoverysurf.com; from £35 for a 1.5-hour lesson). All equipment is provided and I’m thankful for a super thick wetsuit, as the temperature is barely hitting double digits.
We start on the beach as Matt, our instructor, guides us through the basics. We’re soon in the water and Matt’s constant encouragement fills us with enthusiasm and motivation, even after numerous wipeouts. Slowly but surely we start to stand, unsteady but feeling accomplished. There are just three of us in my group, but the maximum size is six, so expect lots of useful feedback (the team also offer Surf Courses and 1:1 sessions).
Catching tiny waves makes me hungry and I drive the 30 minutes to Hope Cove, an old fishing village with two sheltered beaches (making them popular with swimmers). I settle in at the Lobster Pod Bistro (lobster-pod.co.uk; seafood mains from £8.50) which you’ll find perched on the hillside above Harbour Beach. I gorge on the Seafood Platter, which includes today’s catch (Gurnard and Mackeral), alongside potted crab, prawns and a selection of salads.
Visitors can sit on outdoor benches or self-contained pods (which seat up to 10 people) and all have views of the ocean and the grassy Bolt Tail headland (a 15-minute amble along the coastal path will take you up to the headland viewpoint). I spend the next hour marvelling over the view. The sun has made an appearance and I’m lapping it up with a pint of Salcombe Pale Ale (brewed just up the road in Kingsbridge).
The small town of Salcombe is one of South Devon’s most popular (its location on the banks of the estuary make it a long-time favourite with the sailing community), and its independent shops, award-winning restaurants and waterside cafes make it worth a day or two of exploring.
Parking can be hectic, so leave the car at your Shepherd Hut and jump on the number 606 ‘Tally Ho!’ bus from Yarde Gate Nursery (£1.80 per person, each way). Alternatively, you can take the scenic, but extremely hilly, 40-minute walk into town via the village of Batson.
Gin fans should visit the Salcombe Distilling Co. (salcombegin.com) , located on Island Street. Every bottle of Salcombe Gin is distilled on-site using a single copper still (you can spot its gingery hue from the street outside). Tasting Sessions include a tour and lots of samples (including the limited-edition Voyager Series and the zero alcohol, New London Light).
The distillery also runs a Gin School, which allows visitors to create their own bespoke gin recipe. You’ll take charge of a miniature copper still under the watchful eye of an expert distiller, who will guide you through the process of choosing botanicals and naming your unique creation. Take your bottle home or enjoy it at the waterside Distillery Bar (which is a destination in its own right and serves a delicious selection of gin-based cocktails and Salcombe & Tonics).
Along the street from the distillery, you’ll find the Salcombe Dairy (salcombedairy.co.uk), which has been churning ice cream for over 40 years. Over half a million litres of the stuff is pasteurised, churned and packaged each year beneath their shop on Island Street, and they’ve recently started making bean to bar chocolate on the site as well. Must-try ice cream flavours include Honeycomb (their signature flavour) and Rum and Raisin (my personal favourite).
My final evening is spent at waterside restaurant Dick and Wills (dickandwills.co.uk; mains from £15.95). It’s April and government guidelines mean we’re sitting outside in the freezing wind, but luckily the team are on hand with heaters. The salad from my Asian Chilli Beef starter gets blown into the estuary, but luckily my main course, a Prime Devonshire Steak Burger topped with Vintage Cheddar and a side of chips, proves to be a sturdier and equally delicious option.
The rain arrives, but I’ve learnt to embrace it this time, because it’s not a British trip to the seaside without a healthy serving of wind, rain and well, soggy chips.
How to plan your trip - For details of places to stay, visit or experience in and around Salcombe, visit salcombeinformation.co.uk.
(Image Credit - Emilia Harris / PA)